The work I’m briefly describing here is an offshoot from a joint project. I have been researching mordant pastes (as taught by Michel Garcia) with a dyer friend; eventually we will write up our work because it isn’t yet finished. But the work we have done has made me wonder if it wasn’t the key to finding a satisfying, creative way to use natural dyes in combination with wax resist. This has been an ambition of mine since I went to ISEND* in 2011. It’s there I first came across Michel Garcia, on whose generously-shared research our mordant paste work is based.
There are technical problems in trying to combine paste with wax resist. Wax melts in the vat if it’s taken above a certain temperature, and each dye needs at least some heat to fix it. Cold dyeing isn’t an option: it would all take too long. The dyes must take their place in an ordered sequence for colour. The pH of one vat can affect colour of dyes in another layer, the wax can begin to flake off, etc. If the indigo dips are included, there may be as many as 20 operations to create one scarf, as they did in the image below. So it’s time consuming and isn’t going to produce a low-cost item, but I feel I’m getting somewhere at last. The dyes used are weld (Reseda luteola) from a British source, and indigo (a mixture of Devon-grown Persicaria tinctoria and imported powder from Tamil Nadu). The different paste resists give different shades of yellow on the base layer, including the brownish colour visible in small, thin lines and spots which came from the iron in the mordant paste.
Follow up post in July 2016: see here.
* ISEND: International Symposium and Exhibition on Natural Dyes, La Rochelle, 2011. You can download information about this here
A little about Michel Garcia’s technique here
April 4, 2016 at 10:24 pm
Gasp. What a wonderful development, Isabella! I salute your scholarship and lab work
April 5, 2016 at 6:10 am
The scholarship is purely Michel Garcia’s. His mordant paste recipes are really impressive and work on cellulose as well as protein. The pastes allow me to ‘draw’ with natural dyes and that development opens up all kinds of possibilities. Thank you for the feedback. Good to ‘hear’ you back online.